Monday 16 November 2015

Interweave Knits Winter 2016: A Review


Interweave has released the Interweave Knits Winter 2016 issue, and it features a very solid, wearable collection of patterns. Let's have a look at it, shall we?





Inverness Sweater. With such a classic cabled pullover, what's not to like?





Coldfield Pullover. Some nice detailing on this one. I like the mid-arm band concept.





Glasglow Sweater. The reverse stockinette on the sleeves and what looks like Shaker stitch in the body are nice touches.





Worthington Gansey. The deep waist band and the dropped shoulders give this sweater an awkward, disproportionate look, but they are easily remedied.





MacGowan Pullover. Really lovely stitchwork on this one. I love that lacy centre panel.





Shiloh Sweater. Nice stitchwork and the modified collar works really well with it.





Slean Mittens. Nice detailing on these.





Rivers Stole. Love the texture on this one. It's rather big, which won't be to everyone's liking, but you could always scale it down to whatever size you liked.





Tulle Mittens. Very pretty arrangement of cables on these mittens.





Oxford Stockings. Classic cabled socks.





Keeley Sweater. The pattern is good overall, but I think I'd want to fiddle a little with the proportions by making the body somewhat longer and decreasing the height of the cuffs and waistband slightly.





Walthall Sweater. Very much like this simple but effective sweater. The shaping is really good and the cables direct the viewer's gaze to the wearer's face.





Hoxey Cowl. This is quite pretty, and quite well styled. It's a piece that will look best with casual clothing such as this denim jacket.





Warwick Hat. A carefully worked out and finished piece. I'd nix the pom pom, but that's me.





Whitfield Cardigan. Not a fan of this one. The fair isle patterning has a rather helter skelter effect, and the dropped shoulders aren't helping. It also wouldn't be possible to fix them without changing the construction of this piece entirely, as it is knitted in one piece and steeked.





Hawkherst Sweater. Solid classic Cowichan-style piece.





Vernon Hat & Scarf. Attractive set. I like the idea of using a contrast colour for the fringe on the scarf and the ribbed band and pom pom on the cap.

Friday 13 November 2015

Spilly Jane Knits Mittens: A Review


Today we're going to have a look at Spilly Jane Knits Mittens, written by Spilly Jane, and published by Cooperative Press. This book would make a good primer for someone who has never knitted mittens before, as it includes lots of helpful technical information and very detailed instructions, including excellent tutorials on the gusset and peasant thumb techniques, and offers lots of tips and inspiration for anyone who'd like to have some fun making arty mittens. Mittens can be treated like tiny canvasses, and one can be very whimsical when designing them without the project becoming too much of a time hog, and still have a wearable result.





Plain Blue Mitts. This is a very simple design technically speaking, and these mittens could be made with odds and ends of yarn, but the stripes make them eye-catching. "Phasing in" stripes with alternating stitches of the new colour is such a nice effect and gives stripes more sophistication.





Plain Brown Mitts. Another basic pattern, this time with a gusset thumb and classic stripes.





Nougat mittens. These are rather pretty, and well named, because the colourway does remind me of a box of chocolates.





Midtown Mittens. Love the graphic pattern on these, which was inspired by New York's subway grills. I'm not a fan of pointy-tipped mittens, which always look silly to me, but if you feel the same you can easily borrow the more oval shaping from one of the other patterns in this book.





Under the Hostas Mittens. These are totally cute and just the right pair of mittens for those days when you're in an Amélie kind of mood.





Codfish Mittens. Also cute, and with greater longevity than real fish.





Cupcake Mittens. I would ordinarily find something like this too twee for words, but these are irresistibly adorable. The pastel colourway is perfect for the theme.





Decadence Mittens. These are Art Nouveau-inspired, and an easy sell in my case because I love Art Nouveau. I'm not sure about the striped thumb, though. It seems like one detail too much.





Petoskey Mittens. These mittens were inspired by Petoskey stones, which "are the fossilized remains of ancient coral beds that have been tumbled by the waves of Lake Michigan for millions of years". I never would have guessed, as these look more like a fifties textile print to me. However they are quite pleasingly patterned either way.





The Girl With the Prefabricated Heart Mittens. This image is Spilly Jane's conception of how "the image of the classical goddess as she might appear had she been imagined in the 20th century era of impersonal mass production". It's not every day that one sees such a high-level art concept on mittens.





Penguin Mittens. I'm having to strain to see anything penguin-like in these. They look more like vengeful birds from some horror movie or other to me. It's a good concept either way, though.





Abney Park. These were inspired by the gratings and gates of an abandoned Neo-Gothic chapel in Abney Park in London. It's a very cool effect.





Wheatfield Mittens. These mittens depict stalks of wheat as the name suggests, and I really have to admire how well rendered the design is. Spilly Jane definitely has a real talent for creating effective visual patterns.

Thursday 12 November 2015

Give to Me Your Leather (and Wool)


This blog's third anniversary, which was two days ago, was its leather anniversary. I did a special cotton anniversary post last year and so this year calls for a leather post. And it turns out that leather and wool are the combination Stevie Nicks and Don Henley should have sung about. One won't get much joy from actually knitting *with* leather (the result would be unwearably stiff and bulky), but my research tells me there are a number of great ways to enhance knitting projects with leather additions, so let's have a look at them. If you are ethically opposed to using leather, it should be possible to use these ideas on vinyl substitutes.

The bottom spool in the photo above shows leather strips being French knitted into cord. This would be a great way to make pull strings for hoods, plackets, waists, and cuffs of knitted garments.






The above video demonstrates how to French knit a cord. The demonstration material is paracord rather than leather, but this won't affect the technique.





One very practical way of adding leather to your knitwear is to add leather bottoms to slippers or bags or baskets, or palms to mittens and gloves, to make them more durable. This Craftsy tutorial offers two techniques for knitting onto pieces of leather.





These fingerless gloves, which are from Anthropolgie, would be relatively easy to copy as it appears that the leather (or possibly vinyl?) is simply stitched on top of the knitted pieces.





Another way to use leather when making knitwear is to add decorative trims or pockets or patches. I very much like this crocheted cowl, with its leather snap band. This cowl was made by Delia Creates, who offers a free pattern and tutorial. A knitted version of this cowl would be made in much the same way: one would crochet a line of stitches onto the leather band and then pick up and knit the stitches from it.





Fabric stores routinely carry leather handles like those you see here. It would be a straightfoward task for a competent knitter and sewer to replicate this commercially made handbag from Paper to Cloth. If I were to make this, I would consider putting a leather bottom on it as well.





Love this basket, made by the bloggers at Alice & Lois. The leather handles really kick it up several notches. The basket is made of coiled rope rather than knitted (and there's a tutorial), but leather handles would look just as good on a knitted basket and would be attached to it in the same way.





This isn't a knitting-meets-leather project, and I don't much care for these particular items (which are available as a DIY kit from Etsy seller Red Gate Stitchery) but I thought it such a great idea I had to include it. Punch some holes in a leather item and you can cross stitch any design you like into it.





This Tory Burch bag is commercially made, but it offers another idea for how to marry knitting and leather. I'm wondering if it might not be possible to create a bag similar to this one by upcycling a thrift shop purse and cabled sweater.





Adding commercially made snaps and buckles to knitwear is probably the easiest way to combine leather with knitting, but it can be a telling addition. As you can see, this piece from Alexander McQueen wouldn't look like anything very special without its leather buckles, but putting them on instantly turned this coat into a distinctively stylish piece.





This wrap, from Brooklyn-based designer Sunghee Bang, offers us another inspiring way to incorporate leather in knitwear. It looks to me as though a large piece of leather was simply sewn on top of this large needle knit wrap.





I rather like this cardigan, with its leather neckline trim and leather cuffs and body. This photo is from Blog.Naver.com, which also features more pictures of this item. Adding leather to knitwear is an area in which you can get creative and have fun. It needn't be expensive either. Got an old handbag or leather jacket or skirt you love that's getting past being presentable or that no longer fits but that you can't quite bear to let go? Here's your chance to give that leather a new purpose in life and make a beautiful new usable item.





If you're feeling extra adventurous, you could always try making something like this piece from Balenciaga's Fall 2014 collection. This is really quite ingenious. I notice that by adding knitted elements, the designer has cleverly made this garment stretch where it needs to be -- through the waistline and neckline -- so as to make it possible for the wearer to get it off and on. Balenciaga hasn't exactly offered us all a tutorial on this could be replicated, but you might be able to figure it out how to make a similar piece with some experimentation and reference to the other techniques mentioned in this post.

Tuesday 10 November 2015

Three Years of Damage Done


Today marks the third anniversary of that day in November 2012 when I set up The Knitting Needle and the Damage Done and hit publish on my very first post. I looked at my first and second anniversary posts in preparation for writing this one and I found that on my first and second anniversaries I had a lot to say about how my approach to this site had evolved over the previous twelve months. This year I don't have much to say on that topic, which probably means that the site has matured and I'm more or less fully launched and sailing on an even keel... or to use a more appropriate knitting metaphor, working even in stockinette. I suppose that's not a bad thing as long as I'm careful to keep an open mind on new ways to improve the site, and am taking an occasional mental step back to look at the site as a whole and make it's the site I want it to be. And am listening to what my readers have to say, of course. As always, your suggestions are welcome.

I know I haven't been very good about sticking to my posting schedule for the past year. It's often been all I could do to keep up with writing magazine reviews and posting the occasional fun video, and I didn't get around to writing the more in-depth original posts I'd like to do. I wish I could give you my word I'll do better, but the reality is that I have chronic fatigue issues and I have to make money to live on, and this site makes very little money. I only have so many good working hours in a day and often have to prioritize work that actually pays, or basic housekeeping tasks, over this site. All I can say is that I will do my best to do better. I will also say I have a concept for a book in mind, though I don't know when it will be written, let alone published. But I am collecting material for it, and I might get to it within the next year.

If you'd like to help support this site and make it possible for me to spend more time writing content for it and getting to writing that book, I can suggest a couple of ways for you to do so. This morning I added Interweave ads to the site. If you've been thinking of buying something from them, please consider visiting the Interweave store site via the button on the sidebar. I'll get 10% of whatever you spend during your visit at no extra charge to you. I have also added a sidebar link to Amazon.com. If you're ever planning on doing some shopping on Amazon, you can help me by visiting Amazon either through that sidebar link or through any of the Amazon links in my posts. I will get 4-8.5% of whatever you spend during your visit, and again there's no added cost for you. There is also a donation button on the sidebar.

And of course I want to conclude by thanking you all for taking the time out of your busy lives and especially, away from your knitting, in order to visit this site and read what I have to say. It's the highest compliment you could pay me, and I really appreciate all the emails and comments and the enthusiasm you show for the site, both here and on this blog's Facebook page. I think if my only reward for this site were the small amount of money it makes and the lines on the visit tracker graphs, I would have quit by now. It's the positive feedback and connections that make writing this site gratifying.

Thank you all, and I'll try to keep serving up the knitting snark as often and as well as possible.

Monday 9 November 2015

Stashes and the Size Thereof


During this past week I took a few hours to go through my stash and reorganize it. It had been two years since I last did it and it was getting a little scrambled, and I find it's a good idea to go through it all occasionally so that I have a good frame of reference on what I have. Doing this, and also recently seeing a few articles online about stash size, got me thinking about stash size, which in turn led me to write this post.

No, the photo above is not one of me and my stash, but rather one of a woman called Bonney and her stash. Bonney is the mother-in-law of blogger Anna of Mochimochi Land, and also the owner of what may be the world's biggest yarn stash. In July 2007, Anna posted some photos of Bonney's stash, and in January 2011, Anna posted an interview with Bonney about her stash in which Bonney estimated that her stash numbered a staggering "few thousand" balls of yarn. The other article I saw that I keep thinking about is from Ann Shayne and Kay Gardiner of Mason Dixon Knitting, in which they detail their respective approaches to stash organization. I will quickly summarize their methods thusly: Kay says get rid of it all and go buy the perfect yarn for each project when you're ready to begin it; Ann says keep all your yarn and revel in it because it's yarn... unless it's mauve.

I'd say my personal yarn stash management style falls between Kay and Ann's, and very far from Bonney's. I've never had and never will have a huge yarn stash. It fusses me to have some enormous amount of yarn around, waiting to be knitted up. It makes me feel pressured and accused, as though I should have done it already, and as though I should have managed matters better than to acquire it in the first place. But I also don't like the idea of having no stash whatsoever. Having a modest stash on hand saves me money. If I need a small amount of a contrast colour for a project, I can usually find it in my stash rather than buying another whole ball. If I'd like to knit dolls for a Christmas toy drive, my odds and ends of yarn will be perfect for that purpose and I can make a doll almost for free, whereas buying new skeins in all the colours needed would be expensive. The same goes for making a striped sweater for a small child. If I should need a pair of socks or slippers or want to whip up something for a baby shower, I have yarn for that. And while yes, it is lovely to be able to go out and buy the perfect lot of yarn for a given project, I really enjoy the challenge of figuring out how to make something I want to make with the bits and bobs of yarn I have sitting around. I've already planned the sweater I'm going to make my little grandnephew for his third birthday next summer: it's to be dark green with a little intarsia owl on the front in shades of rust, tan, and ivory. Because I don't quite have enough of the dark green main colour yarn, I'm going to piece it out by adding stripes of the intarsia colours to the ribbed neck, cuffs, and waistband. I've also planned to make a cabled cushion cover for one of the bedrooms in my house out of the 300 grams of cream DK weight I have on hand, and have decided if I don't have enough yarn to knit both sides of the cushion, I can always knit one side and sew a fabric back onto it. The thrill of making do with the yarn I have is certainly equal to the pleasure of buying it. Buying the perfect yarn for a project feels like a luxury, while contriving ways to use yarn from my stash makes me feel like a genius.





The above picture is of my stash. Those four plastic boxes and three plastic bags contain all the yarn I own aside from the three projects currently in my workbasket. There's a box of cotton yarn, a box of fingering, a box of bulky weight, a box and a bag of DK, a bag of worsted, and the biggest plastic bag (the Dollarama bag on the left) contains the assorted yarn I've designated for use in the projects I plan to knit within the next year. My stash, while not exactly enormous, is still bigger than I would like it to be. Ideally my yarn stash would fit into two of those plastic cases. My plan is to knock the stash down in size by one bag or box a year until it gets there. I'm already on my way, as at this time last year my stash consisted of those four boxes plus four bags of yarn rather than three.

I do have a few strict rules about yarn buying. I plan my projects ahead of time, look in my stash to see if I've got some yarn that would be suitable before I buy anything, and write out a shopping list of needed yarns complete with specified gauges, amounts, and colour, which I keep in my planner for reference. That way when I'm out somewhere and see a sale-priced perfect yarn for a planned project, I can get out my list and take advantage of the sale by buying exactly what I need. I never buy yarn to "use on something someday", but always for a specific project that I will be knitting in the near future. I also try to buy yarn from places that will accept returns or at least exchanges, so that I can take back any whole skeins I have left over when I finish a project.

I'm not going to try to tell anyone how big their yarn stash should be, or claim my yarn stash management style is ideal for anyone other than me. As She Who Possibly Owns More Yarn than Anyone, AKA Bonney, says in the interview linked above, "I'm not hurting anyone." I have to agree, especially given that immediately prior to beginning work on this post, I watched a video of six U.S. cops throwing two black men against the wall and beating them for having crossed the damn street "against the lights". (Or so the cops claimed. I wouldn't be surprised if the two men were innocent of even that.) In a world as messed up as ours, having a too large yarn stash is so far down on the list of this world's many ills that it barely even registers.

However, I would suggest that it is a good idea to be a little mindful and disciplined about one's yarn buying and stashing. After all, a little mindfulness and discipline goes a long way towards making nearly anything we do more rewarding and successful. It's one reason why I don't share what I call "crazy knitter" memes on this blog's Facebook page. All those cartoons and captioned photos about how funny it is to have a house bulging with yarn and unfinished projects and spending the kids' college funds at the yarn store got old pretty fast. (I especially detest those regressive, sexist memes about knitters hiding or lying about yarn purchases from their husbands.) Extreme behaviour and excess may have some entertainment value, but it's no way to live.

One of the factors to be mindful of is the environmental issues involved. We do have a responsibility to consider the environmental impact of what we buy, and to keep our purchasing habits within reasonable limits. Over consumption is destroying our planet and posing a serious threat to the long-term survival of the human race, and textile production in particular is very harmful to the environment. I recently read in a horrifying article about industrial dyes that one can tell what the trendy new colours are by looking at the current colour of the rivers in China. We absolutely need some textiles to survive and live functional lives, but as responsible citizens of the world we also need to avoid buying things we don't need and won't use. If you have more yarn than you can ever realistically expect to knit within your life time, it's time to rein in your yarn buying habits.

The financial cost is another aspect to consider. Yes, it's your money and your hobby, and I get that simple possession can be a pleasure in itself, but most of us are on a finite budget and have to set priorities. If you are buying more yarn than you can ever use, you might want to consider whether that money wouldn't give you more real pleasure and benefit if it went towards something else: debt repayment, your retirement or child's education fund, a trip, a charitable donation, or even a book, a good bottle of wine, a nice dinner out, or a present for someone you love, and to set some limits on how much you'll spend.

Then there's the storage issue. It's not fun to have every available space in one's home crammed with stuff, to have drawers so full one can't easily open or shut them, to have things fall on one's head when one opens a closet, to have to take ten things out of a cupboard to get to the one thing you need -- and then to have to put all those ten things away again. You might think you enjoy having that yarn around, and maybe you do love having it as much as Bonney clearly loves hers, but just how relaxing is it? How much would you enjoy visiting a spa that was as cluttered and full of stuff as your place? If you've got more yarn than you have places to put it, you should probably consider buying less yarn and even reducing your stash by selling or donating it to people who would put it to good use.

And if you're actually out of control in terms of how much yarn you buy and stash, if it's gotten to the point that it's impacting your ability to pay your bills and/or making your home unlivable and the people you live with angry and unhappy with you, and you can't seem to resolve the situation on your own, then it may be time to seek professional help. There are counsellors, medication, and online resources out there that will help you get your problem under control. The Anxiety and Depression Association's web page on hoarding might be a good place to start.

Having said all this, I hope I didn't come across as too much the joyless scold. My purpose here isn't to try to dictate the size of anyone's stash, but rather to suggest some guidelines and insights. We all have different comfort levels of stuff, different budgets, and different knitting speeds. If your ideal stash size and life goal is "enough yarn to lie naked under" as Bonney is doing above, go for it.

Thursday 5 November 2015

Baby You're a Knitter



Stephen West demonstrates that he's the knitting scene's Weird Al Yankovic with his performance in this video.

Monday 2 November 2015

Pom Pom Quarterly Issue 15: A Review


Pom Pom Quarterly has released its Issue 15. Let's have a look at it, shall we?





Avalon Ballroom scarf. What absolutely gorgeous stitchwork.





Callas bolero. This is one of those items that doesn't hang well even on a professional model, which augurs poorly for any average woman who tries it on.





Carlu pullover. Strikingly pretty. I rather like the added touch of the buttoned cuffs, especially when they're colour-coordinated to the contrast colour at the neckline.





Cicely pullover. I love the slit neckline and decorative beads on this one, which gives it a slightly dressy evening feel to the design without making it something that can't be worn at any time of day. The length does feel a little off proportionally -- even this model isn't quite working that wide waistband and cropped length. If you don't have a waist you care to show off and/or feel your upper body can't handle the visual foreshortening, I'd make the sweater a little longer and decrease the height of the ribbing by several inches.





Deco City shawl. Nice little wrap with an unusual linear lace pattern. I also admire Pom Pom for committing to the deco theme in the photo shoot (as well as throughout the entire issue). They went to the trouble of finding an art deco-esque couch and styling the model in a very late twenties way.





Hulanicki socks. Nicely and even smartly patterned.





Suffragette hat. This is one of those patterns that didn't quite get where it deserved to go. I quite like the rhythmic effect of the welts that circle this cloche, but the side slit isn't a happy effect. It makes the hat look unfinished, or even as though it burst open, sending flying whatever cool finishing ornament had been added to that side.





Theda cowl. Nice piece on the whole, though that edging does look a little unfinished.





Turnberry pullover. This is one really distinctive and gorgeous piece of stitchwork. I think this one might have supplanted a pattern I had picked out for a cotton sweater I intend to make myself this coming spring. I will be making these sleeves full length though. Those bracelet-length sleeves usually don't look right to me.





Wilding. You know, I'm actually kind of on board with the cut outs (cut the sleeves back to the wrists and give this sweater a better shape and more interesting texture, and it'll be a rather sexy look), but not in combination with the built-in gloves. It makes the sleeves look as though they were trying to make a run for it and pulled a "didn't do it, wasn't there, can't prove a thing, we're really gloves" when someone noticed the bare skin at the top of the arms.